Step 1
Create the template
You could make this template using a bandsaw or jigsaw, but preferably you’d have access to a CNC. The design is very simple so it won’t take long for the CNC to cut it out of some 9mm MDF.
But either way you’ll need a 300mm wide circle, with 3 notches but at 120 degrees, making an equilateral triangle. the notches are 20mm deep into the disc, and 20mm wide.
Step 2
Mill/buy the timber
You’ll want the timber you use to be all 20mm thick. This is the same for the legs and the top. I went with 20mm because it fits the proportions of the piece, but it also works well with common router bits (which we’ll get to later). You’ll need the wide panel to be at least 300mm wide, and the legs can be as wide you want. I made mine 30mm.
Step 3
Cut the table top and shelf
For this step you’ll use the router and it’s important to have the correct bits. In this step you’re cutting inside the corners where the legs attach. The size of your bit needs to match the round over bit you need later on, so the legs fit the corner radius. In my case I used a 12mm pattern bit (top and bottom bearing) and a 6mm radius round over.
I initially drew the template onto the timber I was cutting, then cut out close to the line on the bandsaw, then put the template back on using clamps before routing with a pattern bit. As I got further into the revisions of the process I realised it was easier to simply screw the template into the underside of the top and shelf, and do the bandsaw and router with with it on. It’s less steps in the process and using screws means the template won’t move around.
It also makes it easier to flip the piece over so I could use a pattern bit with a bearing at the top and bottom. This is really important as you see in the video; cutting against the grain is a bad idea. And in particular when you’re going into the leg holes. Make sure your router is cutting INTO the hole otherwise you’ll break the corners off.
Make sure the leg holes are cut cleanly as there’s no way to fix issues easily once the template is off. Go over the cut multiples.
Sand all the surfaces now, breaking all the edges.
Step 4
Cut legs
With the top and shelf ready move onto the legs. Start by cutting an inside taper if you like that look. I made the bottom of the legs 20mm x 20mm and the taper ran around 200mm up the leg. This gave a subtle angle. You’ll also want to sand the taper smooth now as you’ll be referencing it one the router next.
Now grab your round over bit and make sure it’s cutting the full radius. Go over all 4 long edges of each leg. Don’t worry about the top of the legs now, we’ll round those off later.
Step 5
Glue up
With the top and legs all sanded you can glue them up. I initially used clamps for this but I later found that band clamps (or straps) work well and are a lot easier. They also give you flexibility if you change the overall shape of the table.
A couple things to note during this process. You’ll do the glue up upside down so you the table top references your work bench. Keep the table top off the bench by a millimeter or so. This will make the top of the legs stand proud of the table top surface, but you can sand those flush later on. It’s a lot easier sanding a few points, rather than trying to bring the entire table top down to the height of the legs.
Also remember that the table top gets glue in first THEN the shelf. So don’t clamp the table top up tight as you’ll need to pull the legs apart to slide the shelf in.
I used a few sticks cut to a specific length and taped them to the inside of the legs. The shelf then sat down on these. This meant the gap between the shelf and the table top was equal all round.
Step 6
Final touches
Once the glue has dried you can do some final sanding to ease over the top of the legs where they extend from the table top.
Now’s also the time to sand back the tags that are protruding from the table top, and get the table top sanded to it’s final finish.
Apply a finish of choice, and you’re done!